Pre-China Test Post

 

Testing 123

Fiumicino Finale

June 28 You know what's not good? Being woken at 4:30am by your ringing mobile phone when you have a morning flight to catch. Ugh. I picked it up, only to be hit, half-awake, with a charming recorded message informing me that our 11am departure was now a 2:30pm departure. Crap. I tried hard to get back to sleep and had just pulled it off when at about 6:30 I received another recorded message that it was now an even later departure - 3:15. BUT that this situation could change at any time, so we still needed to appear as if the flight were still 11.

Our car got us there in record time so we entered Fiumicini Airport at about 8:30am. We were greeted with an enormous line at the United counter and lots of disgruntled passengers who were just discovering that their flight was almost five hours behind schedule. While in line, Mr."Never Forgets a Face" Tony sees a guy that he swears he recognizes, but just can't place. I think it was good that the line was long and slow - ditto for the security line - so that by the time we reached the gate we were faced with a mere five and a half additional hours of waiting.



Tony catches a few Zs in the Fiumicino Airport.

We had consoled ourselves with visions of fabulous shopping opportunities at the gate but the reality was that of the approximately 15 shopping establishments in the G concourse, at least ten were super high-end such as Dolce & Gabbana and Prada. The one store we really liked was a food store, where Sam and I made several last-minute purchases of pesto, sauce, and pasta. After spending a good 20 minutes fighting our way through two separate lines for a late breakfast, we settled into a corner to try to find ways to pass the time. Sam and I talked, read books, and people watched while the girls played video games. Tony, who had already demonstrated his uncanny ability to sleep anywhere, any time, stretched out on the airport floor and...slept. Upon awaking, he again spotted the familiar face and it suddenly occurs to him that it's the Ravens' Offensive Coordinator Cam Cameron. He decides to go over and chat.

The next seven hours were a blur of wandering, waiting, shopping, and eating. Finally, at about 3:30, our flight was called and we were allowed to board the plane. The flight was long, but fine. Sooo hard to sit on a nine-hour flight after sitting for almost eight hours at the airport. But by then, we were just thrilled to be on our way. Other than some fairly significant turbulence (bad enough for the pilots to make the flight attendants strap in) I can't complain. Upon arrival at Dulles (so happy to be on Virginia soil) we still had to endure the further "herding" involved in the "mobile lounges," passport control, and customs. That took a good half hour. I had texted Joe, who had agreed to pick us up, when we landed and told him that I would text again once we cleared Customs so he would know when to leave home. Right after Customs I texted "now" just as we walked into the International Arrivals area. We moved through the crowd and as the last of our group, I was the only one to notice Joe, who was already in the airport, in the crowd, and holding up a sign that said "de la Paz." I don't know when I've ever been happier to see him. He ushered us out to my car and drove us home in short order. Blissful!

What Do Papal Opulence and Flea Markets Have in Common?

June 27 Answer: we enjoyed both today. Being a bit OCD (what? You hadn't noticed?) I had the troops out the door at 8am sharp to make our 9am reservation at the Vatican Museum. We walked to the Termini Metro stop (down three levels - ugh) for a relatively easy (and air conditioned!!) ride to the Ottoviani stop and then had a ten-minute walk to the museum. It was SO nice to walk past literally hundreds of people waiting in line for tickets. Thanks to Rick Steves we breezed right in the front door to exchange our voucher for tickets.

We loved the Vatican Museum. Really interesting exhibits with English translations. Even the girls were interested. Beautiful surroundings. We took our time, despite the ever-increasing number of annoying tour groups. The Sistine Chapel was something I have looked forward to seeing for more than 30 years and it did not disappoint. Again, thanks to Rick Steves, we avoided the enormous St Peter's Basilica line by using the "shortcut" between the Museum and Basilica - which also saved us a 20-minute walk. The Basilica was just gorgeous. The way it tricks the human eye into thinking it's smaller than it really is is quite remarkable. Upon emerging from the Basilica, we caught sight of the hundreds of people waiting in line in the heat. I felt bad - but also a little superior for doing my homework. Is that bad?

Strolling through St. Peter's Square.

We worked our way through the square and then slowly back to the Metro - stopping for lunch along the way. We decided to take the Metro to San Giorgio, where there is a huge section of old Roman wall as well as a huge flea market. We had SO much fun at the market. Really great finds and the girls had a blast haggling for the best prices for things. Very little cost more than four euros! After shopping we walked back to our apartment via the Colisseum. It happened to be the shortest route, but I didn't mind seeing it again.

Next, we took yet another "siesta" that allowed us to do some packing, clean up the apartment, and buy some fresh bread for another of our famous scavenger dinners. After dinner, we took a ten-minute walk to meet a family whose daughter was adopted at the same time and from the same orphanage as Sydney. Because they live in Georgia, we have not seen them since the girls' adoption in 2005. As Joe pointed out, we have now seen them on two continents and neither one is North America. In any case, Syd and Claire really seemed to enjoy catching up with Sophia as did the parents and the older sisters. It was just really cool to see the girls together and try to wrap our heads around how much (and how beautifully) they have grown since their days in Maonan. Ying-Mei and Ying-Yan have come a very long way indeed.

Meeting up with Sophia in Rome!

As have we, and now, it's time for us to wrap up our adventure and head home. It's been an incredible experience that I feel extraordinarily fortunate to have experienced. Thanks to all who have listened to my ramblings.

A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Forum

June 26 Actually it didn't and that works just fine for me. I am over quota on surprises and bumps for this trip and I enjoyed a day of things going according to plan. First of all, it's just Damn Cool that the Colosseum is only a few blocks away. One left turn and then BAM! Colosseum. It's probably not normal that I go looking for things in the places they are supposed to be and yet I'm always shocked to see them. (But it's the COLOSSEUM!)

First glimpse of the Colosseum just a few blocks from our hotel.

We dragged everyone out fairly early to be at the big C when it opened at 8:30. Once again - so glad we did since it turned into a mob scene fairly quickly. I can't imagine what it's like later in the day. Again, just standing outside is awe-inspiring. You can't wrap your brain around the fact that it's over 2,000 years old and yet still, for the most part, standing. To think that things could be built on such a grand scale so long ago - I get pretty thrilled. While touring and reading all the information, I was struck by how relatively accurate the movie "Gladiator" was in terms of its portrayal of the various staged spectacles and use of animals, etc. I could have spent all day there. Nevertheless, we had to move on, and so we crossed over to Palatine Hill and then the Forum. By then it was again super hot out, but those thoughtful Romans have running water fountains all over so we were able to refill and stay relatively hydrated. The Forum was really, really cool (my professional opinion) and I could have spent another whole day here, but the girls were starting to cook in the noon sun, so we decided to pursue some lunch.

After lunch we walked completely across the city to Borghese Gardens. Walking along Via Veneto both ways was very entertaining. The park was just okay, but to be fair, we were so hot and tired, we didn't venture in very far. Everyone was just really wiped out from the heat and days of trudging, so I suggested some gelato and a late afternoon siesta. Good call - just what we all needed. We returned to our apartment for a few hours of book reading on our terrace. Heaven! Later, I took a solo trip to a nearby market and I have to say it was fun trying to blend in a bit. I understood bits of conversations and by now have a decent grasp of Italian market protocol. Just strolling down a Roman street with my purchases, on the way back to my apartment, was very enjoyable.

Second gelato stop of the day. It's just SO good!

After resting up, we headed out for yet another great meal, followed by a stroll. The Colosseum called to me once more and I had to answer. One more look - in the waning sunlight and with the moon rising - belissimo! On our way home, we stopped for yet MORE gelato! Yes - twice in one day (though I abstained because I was still too full from dinner). A sweet end to a very sweet day. Only one day to go! Tomorrow is All Things Vatican!

There's No Place Like Rome

June 25 It's shocking to realize, that as the sun sets on our first evening in Rome, that we have only two full days remaining on this trip. It's been wonderful and exciting, but there is definitely a part of me that misses home, my friends, my son, and of course, toilet seats. Plus, several of us (primarily Tony, who will not be happy with me for sharing) are starting to feel the wear and tear. He's had terrible blisters for the entire trip, which we aggravate by going on daily death marches. Then, our last day in Sorrento, he twisted his ankle and it gave him quite a bit of trouble today. But, being Tony, he roughed it out with no complaining - but we could all tell he was hurting.

Waiting for our final train from Sant'Agnello.

Bright and early this morning we packed up our apartment in Sant'Agnello and splurged on a cab to the train station. We easily made the express train to Naples, which, while better than our first CV train with luggage, was still quite crowded and hot. I was SO happy to disembark for the final time at Napoli Garibaldi and switch to our Trentalia train to Rome. It was the lap of luxury by comparison. We took a high-speed train so the trip from Naples to Rome took just over an hour. We rolled into Rome at exactly noon and then set off on foot to our apartment in the Monti (Monte?) district.

Our landlord was waiting for us and gave us a quick tour of our two bedroom, two bath apartment. We love it - terraces front and back. After dropping our bags off we set out to find a place for lunch and we lucked into a place with wonderful food and a very attentive wait staff. I ordered a fabulous linguini with porcini mushrooms. Tony got a seafood ravioli, Sam got shrimp risotto, and the girls split gnocchi. Everyone was very full and very happy.

Meeting Claire J. in Rome. Very cool. As was the gelato.

Our next mission was to meet up with dear family friends of ours, who happen to be in Rome at the same time. We met them at Trevi Fountain and it was just so cool to see familiar faces. We took photos, shared some gelato, and handed off Buzzy Bee, who is up for even more adventures. It was very, very cool. Next we picked up Rick Steves' "Heart of Rome Walk," which included Campo di Fiori, the Pantheon, and the Spanish Steps.


We finished up around 5:30, at which point Tony's ankle was really finished. So we hiked back to our apartment and sent him and Claire upstairs while Sam, Syd, and I hit a nearby market for yet another cobbled together dinner (highly recommended and delicious). It helped that our landlord left us an enormous bowl of fruit, which will take us our entire three days to get through. Tomorrow - ancient Rome! For me, I think this will be one of the highlights of the trip.

Our Date with Doom: Pompeii and Vesuvius

June 24 Another hot and sunny day here in Southern Italy. I like the heat in general, but all the hiking up hills we've been doing makes the high temperatures and humidity a bit more difficult. Literally, each of the last three days I have had periods of time when sweat was pouring down my face. Not attractive, but I guess I'm not here to look attractive.

This morning we set out at 8am, down our big hill to Sant'Agnello train station, where we went to buy tickets, but...no one was there. Apparently 3/4 of the town basically shuts down on Sunday, including CV train ticket sales. All we found was a hand written note, telling us to purchase tickets at "the bar."

Buy the ticket in the BAR!?

Fortunately we were a few minutes early so we wandered out of the station in search of "the bar." Also fortunately, I was in possession of my dazzling Italian language skills and was able to ask several people, "do you know where I can buy tickets for the train?" They either didn't know or gave directions that sent us in circles. In the last establishment we tried, the counter person basically told us to just get on. When I specifically asked, "are you saying we just ride without buying a ticket?" He just gave a nonspecific shrug that I interpreted as "yes, but you didn't hear it from me." Okay, so we rode the train for free. I still feel a little bad about it, but we had an ugly overpayment scenario yesterday, so we looked at it as some sort of cosmic train ticket justice.

Thirty minutes later, we entered the gates of Pompeii and I was transported. I love, love, love visiting places that I have been reading about my entire life and Pompeii was no exception. We arrived early and we were rewarded with the run of the place for a while. Long, sweeping, empty avenues of destruction. it was awesome! It was obvious that the site was very well maintained. And we had Rick Steves' walking tour to help us find the highlights. We spent several hours wandering around, but by lunchtime, it was absolutely packed with tourists and ridiculously hot. Time to go.

Wandering the ancient streets of Pompeii. Sublime.

We grabbed a quick lunch and then went about booking a bus to Vesuvius. Not as easy as the guidebook tells you. We were looking for one or two specific companies, but they were nowhere in sight. Instead, we were confronted by a number of very pushy people, trying to sell their tours and getting upset if you hesitated to compare prices. We kept walking and found a company we liked much better. And we're glad we did because our tour took the more scenic (and rugged) trip through the Vesuvius National Park. The 4-wheel vehicles we rode in was like a military vehicle, and it, miraculously, got us to within a 20-minute uphill slog through deep piles of dirt to get to the summit. We were told we would be greeted by a certified volcanologist, but when we got off the person, the woman who greeted us only pointed upward and said "it's 20 minutes to the top."

As per usual, we set a fast pace and were way ahead of our group when we reached the summit. Once we got there, we were told that we would be getting a tour in English once the entire group had arrived. We debated waiting, but since we knew we only had about an hour at the top, we chose to go on our own and were able to make our way around almost the entire rim. Glad we did, because we overheard a tour later that was more like a five-minute intro. The views were spectacular. Both looking into the crater, which looked like a lunar landscape, and the views back down to the Bay of Naples and surrounding areas.

Our descent - quite a bit easier than the ascent. The views were worth the price of admission.

It was much cooler at the top and we were even inside clouds from time to time - not surprising since we were nearly a mile up. Soon we made our way, slipping and sliding down the path back to our military vehicle, then to a shuttle bus, and then to our train. We were a bit weary (and did I mention FILTHY?!) when we arrived back in Sant'Agnello. But we were also hungry. Unfortunately we also chose to eat in town on the one day that the entire town was closed. MUCH more walking before we finally found an open restaurant. Worth the walk as the food was good and the staff was great. After walking back up our big hill and scrubbing off a great deal of dirt, we began the process of packing up for the next, final phase of our journey. Tomorrow at 8am, we set out for Roma!

Who Needs a Funiculare?

June 23 We were back on schedule with an early start this morning, which really does pay off here. When you're in places frequented by mobs of tourists, the best plan is to get in early, enjoy, and get out. We had a taxi pick us up at 7:45 for the ten-minute ride to Marina Piccolo in Sorrento, from which we were taking a jet boat to Capri. All went smoothly except we were slightly bummed that the open top part of the boat was chiuso (closed). I was enjoying the ride, which was pretty bouncy until Sam tapped me and pointed to Claire, who was positively green and looked as though she was about to throw up. I jumped up to try to get her to a bathroom and almost ran into a crew member who was wisely holding a handful of plastic bags. I grabbed one and headed back to Claire, who was in bad shape, but thankfully never actually lost her breakfast. She does occasionally get car sick, but she had been fine on the jet boat, so we didn't think to give her any meds. By this time, Syd was feeling queasy too but we were thankfully pulling into Capri's Marina Grande.

Capri - beautiful views everywhere you look.

What can I say about Capri? I can't think of many places that compare in terms of beauty except perhaps parts of Maui. We arrived by about 8:45 so it was still fairly foggy and made the mountains look like something out of Jurassic Park. Our first activity was supposed to have been to jump on an early boat to the Blue Grotto, but with two girls down, that clearly wasn't going to happen. So, we went with the flow and decided to walk up (straight up) to the actual town of Capri. We have done some serious climbing since we got here, but this one took the prize. I think we climbed for at least 45 minutes before reaching the top. I can report, however, that it was well worth it. We explored the town a bit (lots do ultra high-end shops) and then set out for Villa Jovis. Of course we took the wrong path, but we wound up at the Natural Bridge, which was pretty spectacular.

Natural Arch on Capri.

After walking back to town, we made out way aback down to the Marina for lunch at a surprisingly good waterfront "snackbar" where Tony was served the largest mug of beer I have ever seen. The people, as almost always, were wonderful - generous and funny and hellbent on giving phenomenal service. Next, per Syd's request, we tried out the small beach on Capri. The girls had a blast despite the zillions of rocks, playing in the water while Sam read, Tony slept, and I stared at the gorgeous water.

After taking the jet boat back to Capri, we climbed once again up to Sorrento from the Marina and made our way to the train station and back to Sant'Agnello. We stopped for some food to take home and found a great little market with a very sweet man where we found pasta (which he gave a thumbs up to), fresh fruit and fresh bread. We are looking forward to a feast later. We walked up the giant hill to our apartment and it nearly finished us all off. We have had too many climbs the past few days. But we made it and are now enjoying a relaxing afternoon at "home" on our terrace overlooking the Bay. Loving life!